Learning From Being Shutdown

Photo from Climbing Magazine

Overcoming nerves is a part of climbing. But when is the line between pushing limits and the realm of wasted time crossed?

Climbing gets more interesting (to me) when the physical and mental challenge of the route increases. Trying to the point of falling is exhilarating, but the limit will eventually be met. 

Many of us have had that experience. We’ve been stopped cold at a move, unable to climb through the sequence to the next bolt. There is almost always a better way to do the move than the one you tried first, so you try a different way… only to be spit off.  Maybe something else? Nope. Despite all your efforts it’s just past your current ability.

First of all, don’t let your confidence and focus be discouraged. That may be all you need to push past the crux… we often are held back by doubts that wear down our ability to think about the performance at hand.

But, at a certain point, continuing to try has diminishing returns. When your power begins to wane (ie. you fall below the stopper move or you can’t make any reasonable attempts), LET IT GO. You may injure yourself on moves that you need to save for some other day.

Don’t be afraid to try again. Failure is an essential part of projecting. But, of course, you’ll need some better preparation and tactics: 

1) Toproping! I have gone over my head and attempted to lead a route on which I had no business doing so because: “Leading is the way to do it”. I think this is a limiting tactic. Don’t be afraid to toprope it! One of my hardest sends went as follows: I got shutdown the first time and left a bail biner, I tried toproping it and found the secret holds and beta, I sent it on toprope, and then I red pointed it! Toproping is an essential tool!

2) Build a better base of other routes of similar styles. This will bring confidence and build the skills and strength necessary for the project.

3) Swallow your pride and reflect on your mistakes or shortcomings. Analyze, learn, and write down what you can do better next time… it’ll  have been a waste of time otherwise! 

4) Finally, have some patience! Remember, it’ll still be there next week…