My First Trip: The Last Day

 If you haven’t read my previous post I would suggest taking a look…

The Last Day: Day 5

Starting up Route 66!

The final day of my trip could not have ended better. As the week (and my trip) were drawing to a close, a deepening sense of urgency to make the most of it emerged.

The last day began at the Membrane Wall. It was time to polish off the previous day’s project: Route 66. I warmed up on Bad Faith, a route much underrated by Mountain Project in my opinion (though I’m biased as it is a type of climbing I personally enjoy). To finish getting the psych and blood flowing I gave 66 an unserious redpoint attempt to hang draws and refine beta. 

Route 66 begins with some steep climbing to the first crux: a move to a pocket. After a few reaches the terrain shifts to a ledge, allowing full recovery. The second line of defense is a roof with a throw to a jug, developing fatigue, and some final crimps to the anchor.

The last night’s Youtube research yielded useful beta for the second roof crux and video analysis showed that I climbed like a snail frozen in Jello. Armed with rest and visualization, I gave an exhale to relax my nerves, and began the first moves.

I went as fast as I could, which gave me the juice to nab the pocket and gain the ledge. Doubts crawled to my mind, but I relaxed as I focused on recovering. My poor cousin waited for 10 minutes as I gathered my confidence, before feeding rope for the second crux. 

After making the setup moves, I drove through my feet, grabbing the jug. My feet cut, but I quickly pulled back on and reached for the crimps… I finally grabbed the clipping jug, threw the rope into the fixed carabiners, and let out a yell of triumph! “Give me slack! I’m goin’ for a victory whip!” With sudden acceleration I shot past the roof, and once the fall was over I cleaned the draws. Excited and prideful, the universe bestowed some humility as my belayer accidentally lowered a little too hard onto my butt… at least he claimed it was accidental.

Just like in Maple Canyon, with expectations met, we felt ok with going and checking out something improbable. I was in American Fork Canyon, the home of Hell Cave, the origin of steep sport climbing. There was no way I wasn’t going to take a look…

All you need to know about this venture is: The Hell Cave is HARD! Let’s just say that I walked away only having done about 5 moves on Melting and my first rodeo clip (which was also a back clip). I’m excited to come back stronger and get the true Hell Cave experience, though it was fun to try a route in one of the first sport climbing caves in the world.

Heed the advice written in chalk on the wall…

My cousin suggested we try a route on the nearby El Diablo Wall. After accidentally starting up a 5.12, we did some easy routes on the right side just as a few drops of rain began to fall. We decided to break for lunch and wait for the sprinkling to pass. 

After some leftover pasta we went to the Division Wall to finish off the day. We started with Les Is More, a combo of face and crack climbing (the latter of which I preferred as I’m more used to trad climbing), and then moved left. As I did Teens In Heat (a fun technical crimp route) I watched an older climber beautifully cruise up Deep End, a classic gently overhanging face. With fatigue from having done a lot of climbing already, I hesitated to give it a shot. If it was too hard it would really bug me to leave a route undone, but then I thought, It looks too cool to pass up! So I tied in. I went fast when the sequence was obvious and rested when a good hold came. Deep End slightly steepens, has no defined crux, and an unusual lack of pockets, a kind of climbing I’m more accustomed to. I was able to stay in the zone, mitigate the pump,  and eventually top it despite my worries! If you come to American Fork I highly recommend you don’t miss the opportunity to jump into the Deep End. 

After a few repetitions of, “Just one more route..” and some laps on the fantastic Physical Therapy and Black Hole, we ended my week of climbing in Utah. To celebrate we went to dinner, where I gained a new affinity for Thai curry at a restaurant in Provo (I wish I could remember which), and by enjoying some milkshakes before going to bed. 

I flew out the next day with a new appreciation for how lucky I am to have such amazing people in my life. Thanks to my grandparents for the bed and food, and thanks to my cousin for the belay and the invitation!

My personal favorites in American Fork Canyon: 

License To Thrill 5.11c, Membrane

Deep End 5.11a, Division Wall

Physical Therapy 5.9, Division Wall