Tommy Caldwell’s Weather Advice: 9 Out Of 10

Jay Knower going for it on Concrete Jungle (5.13c)! Photo from Ladd Raine (Mountain Project)

On the winter solstice we had a long enough break since the recent two and a half foot snow storm to leave me wondering. I decided to go out on a reconnaissance mission to the local crag. When it started slushing as I drove down the dirt road to the crag, I lost hope. But, upon reaching the usual switchback, the one that lays within the sun’s reach (just out of the shady canyon), it began to dry. Never failing to surprise me! I slogged up a bit more to the base of the crag. The cracks were seeping slightly, but it was nothing a little chalk and motivation couldn’t handle. My project, a steeper line, awaited in even better conditions. 

I regretted the “reconnaissance mission”. Had I gotten up earlier; had I beat the initial precipitation… 

I recently saw a video of Jonathan Siegrist, attempting a 5.15 in fog and seemingly damp conditions. The route was dry and Siegrist enjoyed the benefits of going for it. He shared some advice Tommy Caldwell had once given him: just go climbing. Nine out of ten times it’s great, and the other time you’ll have a good story. 

While much of Caldwell’s success can be attributed to hours of mastery, some comes from the fact that he goes and gets those hours. Remember his send of the Dawn Wall? Be ready to brave some melt off and a few ice chunks!

So find your nearest south facing crag, the next window, and go get it!