How Long Until DNA Is Downgraded?

Photo from Black Diamond

After a monumental effort by Seb Bouin (150+ days to be exact), the world now has it’s second 5.15d. Now for those who haven’t caught up in a while, it would be the third, but Alex Megos’ Bibliographie has since been downgraded to 5.15c, prompting the question: will DNA’s grade stand?

Elite grades have always been fickle. It seems that every few months history is rewritten. Flex Luthor may have been the first 5.15b, Open Air might replace Biographie as the premier 5.15, and Hubble (the “first” 5.14c) is now consensus 5.14d. Bouldering is even worse, with V16 and V17 more imaginary than decided, as shown by problems like Gioia and Soudain Seul.

Another thing that sows doubt in my mind about DNA is its resemblance to Bibliographie. Both are the “hardest route I’ve ever tried” (according to the first ascensionist), took MANY days, and aren’t as comparable to Silence in bouldery difficulty. While pure power is not the only factor contributing to a hard route, the V12 cruxes of DNA and Bibliographie just aren’t as hard as the V15 boulder on Silence… 

As for taking a long time, both were FAs, which are more time-consuming because moves need to be learned for the first time and holds need to be cleaned. Also, we all know that period on a project where it’s more a mental block than a physical one; when you’ve trained yourself to fall at a crux because you’ve done it so many times. Since they fell many times unlocking moves for the first time EVER, this may be the case. But does this add to the grade? If so, Bibliographie has been done a disservice and DNA will stand.

But let’s see what Stefano Ghiosolfi and Adam Ondra have to say. I’m excited to see, I’ve always wondered why Seb hasn’t climbed harder yet, with his amazing repertoire of nail-hard routes. It seems he was too busy with DNA to climb 5.15c. Whatever the grade is, we can all certainly assert that the route looks beautiful, and it would a lifetime achievement for any climber.